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POSTED: 15 Jul 2023

Top Skincare Tips for Skin of Colour from a Skin Doctor

Individuals with darker skin tones often face a unique set of skin . These hyperpigmentation, keloid scars and higher sensitivity to certain treatments like peels and lasers. Sadly, most medical and training programmes do not cover skin of colour . According to , just 22% of any formal training in skin of colour. Fewer than half felt able to treat people of colour, who . There is a wealth of misconceptions around skin of colour, so we are here to dispel them. In this article, we explore the unique needs and best for skin of colour.

Skin Problems Unique to Skin of Colour

Skin of colour is a term that covers a wide range of skin tones. speaking, it refers to non-white skin. People of African, Asian, Latin, and Middle descent tend to have higher levels. Most have skin types 4 to 6 on the . skin offers some natural protection against sun damage. This means it is less prone to photo-ageing. In fact, people with skin of colour often than counterparts. That said, there are also concerns that skin of colour is at greater risk of. These include , , and .

Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour

is one of the most common issues affecting skin of colour. It is where the skin makes excess melanin in areas. This leads to that can linger for months or even years. Darker skin tones have larger melanocytes, which and hold more melanin. This is why skin of colour is more prone to hyperpigmentation.


A of triggers can increase melanin production. These often include excessive sun exposure, or injury, and hormonal fluctuations. Skin of colour has better protection, but it is still to sun damage. Excess sun pushes the skin to more to protect against UV rays, which shows up as . Skin of colour is less prone to this than lighter skin tones, though it is not immune. It can also hyperpigmentation from changes, known as melasma. hyperpigmentation is more common too. This normally as patches of darker skin around the , neck, chin and .


Skin of colour is also far more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation than skin. This is where dark patches develop after trauma, including , burns or even . The trauma causes inflammation that damages the (the pigment-producing cells). Melanin then leaks out and deposits into the skin where the melanocyte sits. This is why you get patches of dark skin at the site of the injury.


It is to completely avoid hyperpigmentation in skin of colour. You can, however, reduce the risk. Easy wins include using sun protection, treating skin conditions like acne and eczema, and injury to your skin. There are also a number of that can help fade hyperpigmentation, which we below.

Keloids & Hypertrophic Scars

People with skin of colour are also more prone to keloids and hypertrophic scars. Keloids are tough, raised scars that expand beyond the wound’s . scars are also raised, but they stay within the wound’s initial . Both result from an healing response. The body makes too much to repair a wound or site, which leads to raised, skin.


The risk of these scars is significantly higher in skin of colour. Raised melanin content does not only influence the skin’s colour. It also plays a role in the skin’s and healing . This can tip the scales of healing, leading to an overproduction of and these abnormal scars.


and scars can follow any skin injury, including surgical cuts, piercings, burns, acne or even minor . can also continue to grow for years and often recur even after . They can be itchy, tender or even . They can also carry a real emotional and psychological burden, affecting of life and . As such, it is important to be of these risks and seek help early if you notice any unusual scars. It also helps to reduce skin trauma and manage inflammation, so these scars are less likely to form in the first place.

Flesh Moles

Also known as Dermal Filler Dissolving (Hyaluronidase) melanocytic naevi, flesh moles can occur in all skin types. However, they tend to be more common and in skin of colour. This is largely down to the between the colour of the mole and the surrounding skin. Flesh moles are usually benign and pose no health risk. That said, any change in the size, shape or colour of a mole should be by a dermatologist. they should be in skin of colour, as these changes can be signs of skin cancer.

Early Skin Cancer is Often Missed

Skin of colour has more melanin, the pigment that gives skin, hair and eyes their colour. This provides some protection against harmful UV radiation, but not complete protection. So although skin cancer is less common in darker skin, it can be more deadly. This is because it is often detected at a later stage. Part of the problem is a lack of education, for the public and for doctors, on how skin cancer looks in skin of colour.


Therefore, if you have skin of colour and notice a new mole or skin changes, it is vital to see a dermatologist experienced in people of colour. This matters even more if mole is needed, so they can reduce the risk of keloid scars.

Vitiligo

Vitiligo is an that leads to the loss of skin in patches. It can affect all skin tones. However, it is often more noticeable in skin of colour, due to the contrast between pigmented and depigmented skin.


In skin of colour, can also be more emotionally distressing. The contrast is more pronounced, and there can be cultural stigma around changes in skin colour. Many people experience significant psychosocial fallout, including and .


In terms of treatment, the goal is to stop or slow the loss of pigment. Options include immune suppressants, topical corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors and light . In some cases, (micropigmentation) or cosmetic may be an option. It is also to protect the skin from the sun, as areas burn easily. Crucially, people with skin of colour and vitiligo should seek a dermatologist in treating this in skin types.

Ashiness

Dry skin, or xerosis, is usually more in skin of colour. This is because dry, flaky skin shows up more against a darker tone. Ashiness occurs when the skin’s surface becomes dehydrated and loses water. The result is a dull, rough and often or "ashy" appearance. It is caused by various external . These include harsh soaps, too much sun, cold and dry weather, and certain conditions or medications. Research also suggests that some skin of colour may be more prone to water loss, which causes .


The best way to combat ashiness is twofold. Avoid the factors that dry out the skin, and use a hydrating routine. This includes gentle, non-irritating cleansers, regular exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, and .

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae

barbae, also known as , affects people with skin of colour. It is especially common in those with thick, curly hair. It happens when shaved, plucked or waxed hair grows back into the skin. This causes and painful bumps. Over time, the inflammation can also lead to hyperpigmentation.


The of the hair is the reason it is more common in skin of colour. Curly or coiled hair, when cut close to the surface, can curl back and pierce the skin. The body sees this as a object and mounts an inflammatory response. This gives rise to clogged pores and bumps. It also promotes production, which causes dark spots or .


pseudofolliculitis barbae centres on reducing irritation and . measures include avoiding close shaves, using single-blade razors or electric clippers, in the of hair growth, and using a soothing aftershave. like and can help the skin and free up ingrown hairs. agents may then help fade any associated .

Problematic Skin Products & Treatments for Skin of Colour

When it comes to skincare, not all treatments are safe or for skin of colour. What works well on skin can wreak havoc on darker skin. Certain active ingredients can be and cause problems. One key is high-concentration , which can the skin and cause PIH. The same can happen with , and even the . Physical are also a concern, as they can cause that lead to inflammation and PIH. Harsh soaps, alcohol and can be drying and irritating, which causes and even PIH. Skin of colour therefore needs a of effective yet gentle skincare. Always patch test new products and start with lower . Even better, seek the advice of a skincare in treating skin of colour.


can be very for hair removal, skin ageing, scars, and hyperpigmentation. However, they must be used with caution on skin of colour. The laser’s energy is absorbed by dark pigment. This means darker skin can absorb too much of that energy, which risks burns, PIH and even scars. Certain carry a similar risk, particularly ones like glycolic and TCA peels. Used incorrectly, they can cause PIH or even hypopigmentation in darker skin. None of these treatments are off limits though. It is just crucial to see a who specialises in skin of colour. They will be able to choose the safest, most effective treatment for you.

Best Skincare for Skin of Colour

The best skincare for skin of colour addresses your without unnecessary or worsening pigment. There are plenty of products that work well and are safe to use. Below we go through the key ingredients to protect, treat and enhance your skin.

Professional Treatments for Skin of Colour

can be used safely in skin of colour. Start with low and build up gradually as your skin them, and always patch test first. Among professional treatments, like , and are generally safe in skin of colour. The same is true for and , which can boost skin quality and texture. If you are prone to hypertrophic scars or keloids, exercise caution. It is worth a with a dermatologist who specialises in skin of colour first.


peels and lasers can be highly useful for acne, scars, ageing and hyperpigmentation. However, they only work safely if done with care and caution. To avoid burns, scars and PIH, see a in treating skin of colour.

Best Skincare Routine for Skin of Colour

There is a whole world of products that work well for skin of colour. The best depends on your concerns, goals and lifestyle. The core steps are:


For acne, and scarring, useful additions include:


Caring for skin of colour means its unique characteristics and . It helps to know which are problematic and to adopt a for your . For and treatments, always choose a doctor with in skin of colour. For keloids, skin changes and moles, see a with that experience. They will be more likely to you correctly and manage you properly.



We are about skincare, which is why we set up our virtual skin clinic. Our are in delivering safe and treatments for skin of colour. We provide prescription skincare with like , and to treat , , and where appropriate. Everything is personalised to your needs. . The journey to great skin starts here.



This is intended for general informational only and is not a for medical advice, or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical with any concerns about your skin or .


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